Salami and provolone grinders (Connecticutspeak for “subs” or “hoagies”) have been a mainstay most of my life — and always cold, never heated. So having a char salami sandwich at Poochie’s in Skokie came as something of a revelation to me.

This sandwich has a simplicity, an old-school directness, that appeals. A grilled strip of salami, sliced lengthwise, is sandwiched into a length of sturdy French bread, garnished with sharp yellow mustard and topped with sweetly caramelized onions.